THE BURGENLAND BUNCH NEWS - No. 121A
DEDICATED TO AUSTRIAN-HUNGARIAN BURGENLAND FAMILY HISTORY
(Issued monthly by G. J. Berghold)
September 30, 2003
(c) 2003 G. J. Berghold-all rights reserved)
BURGENLAND BUNCH INTERNET LINKS - ADDITIONS, REVISIONS 08/21/2003
HAVE BEEN ADDED TO THE HOMEPAGE (from Internet/URL Editor Anna Tanczos Kresh)
This second section of our 4-section newsletter includes:
1. Hebraic Burgenland - Mattersburg
2. Canadian Immigration Records From Austrian Wanderungsamt
3. Croatian Language And Life In The Burgenland - A Website
4. Taste Of The Burgenland - Pinched Dumplings (Noodles) For Soup
5. Hungarian Painters Of Peasant Or Rural Scenes & Burgenland Artists
6. Graz Festival
1. HEBRAIC BURGENLAND - MATTERSBURG
Hebraic Editor Maureen Tighe-Brown forwards the following (edited):
Dear Ms. Tighe-Braun, Quite some time ago you sent me a list of bibliography
about the Jewish Burgenland. It was very helpful. Thank you. In the meantime
have visited Mattersburg with my son, saw the Judengasse, but unfortunately no
sign of the Jewish life that was there.
In the cemetery, which was destroyed, some tombstones and part tombstones
were plastered to a wall. I did find some of our family (can send it to you if
you are interested). From the municipality of Mattersburg I got documents of my
parents - Matrikenblatt uber die Gemeindeangehoringen der gemeinde and
Heimats-Matrikenumsschlagbogen. They presented me with a book about the
history of the city. It contains quite a large part about the Jews there.
Amongst the JUDENRICTER = Jewish Judges, found some of our family (I traced the
family back to the 18th century). The book mentions a document as follows:
"... die Juden von Mattersburg zeichnet ein ungeheurer Lebenswille aus. Diese
Angaben mussten ja alle irgendwie verdient werden. Sie lassen daher nichts
unversucht, um Betriebkapital zu erhalten, damit sie weitere Gaschafte tatigen
konnen., wie wir aus dem Fall des Mandl Deutsch und seine Ehefrau ersehen konnen.
Am 19. Mai 1817 borgt sich das Ehepar Deutsch von Albin Pfaller, Ehrenburger
der Stadt Wr. Neustadt, ein Kapital von 21.700 fl. Wiener Wahrung zur eine
Verzinsung von 5% und einer Kundigungszeit von 6 monaten aus. Um sich genugend
abzusichern, liess Pfaller die Schuldverschreibung des Mandel Deutsch, des Simon
Deutsch und Lowy Hirschel beim Verwatungsamt in Forchtenstein am 27. Mai 1817
durch den Verwalter Fuchs eintragen."
Mandl Deutsch is my father's Great-Great-Grandfather. Simon Deutsch (his full
name Simon Hirsch Zvi), was born 27 November 1836 in Mattersdorf. He was the
grandson of Mandl and Ginendl Deutsch. In the cemetery in Mattersburg I found
only a part of his tombstone. He is named there, in Hebrew, Shimon Zvi son of
Gottlieb Deutsch.
In Fritz P. Hodik's book "Beitrage zur Geschichte der Mattersdorfer Judengemeinde
im 18. und in der erste Halfte des 19. Jahrhunderts", he has got a list
(pages 268-9) of the Gemeindevorsteher from 1605 to 1848 from the protocol 7545
of the Esterhazys. The last one in that list is 1846-1848 Ignaz Deutsch - Son
of Mandl Deutsch, born in Mattersdorf (1807-1887). Have you got the names of
the ROSH HA KOHOL's (= head of the community) after that date. One of the
gravestones I found is of Josef Eliezer Deutsch (my father's grandfather from his
father's side - my father's parents were both named Deutsch and both were from
Mattersdorf. I could not find any connection of the two families). On the
gravestone it is written KATZIN=Officer and ROSH HAEDA=head of the community.
Am also interested to know who were the Rabbis of Mattersdorf/burg and when.
I did find in a preface to one Simha Bunim Gins' books (he himself was the
Rabbi of Mattersdorf in the years 5570=1810 to 5589=1829). The following are
mentioned there and in Hodik:
Mid 17th century Rabbi Moscheh
Rabbi El'asar (grandfather of Rabbi El'asar Kallir)
Samson Wertheimer (Oberrabiner of the Esterhazy estates)
Meir ben Jizchak (Eisenstadt an the other 6 KEHILOT=communities)
Bernhard Eskeles (all 7 communities. Seat at Eisenstadt)
5473=1713 Zwi Hirsch Lisker (MORE ZEDEK not AV BETH DIN=head of court)
1714 Jehuda Lew Berliner
Mordechaj Gumpel
1730 Arjeh Lew Frankfurter (Shotten)
-1768 Natan Nate Frankfurter-Shotten (son of Arjeh Leb). Was controversial.
His gravesone had no mention of him as Rabbi of Mattersdorf
Hirsch Gershon Hayes
Jermiya Rosenbaum
Yissachar Ber Bloch
Moses Sofer Schreiber (Chatam Sofer)
Zvi Zamusht (not mentioned in Hodik)
1810-1829 Simcha Bunam Gins
1829 Meir Popper Almas-Amashder (was forced to resign)
1842-1857 Simon Sofer Schreiber (son of Moses)
-1938 Samuel Ehrenfeld (his signature is on my father's birth certificate).
As I understand, he was the last Rabbi of Mattersburg. Do you have other names
and dates? Any corrections to the above list? Will appreciate any help.
Regards, Meir Deutsch
2. CANADIAN IMMIGRATION RECORDS FROM AUSTRIAN WANDERUNGSAMT (From Viktor Hatwagner)
I am a quite new BB member and currently researching the Canadian years of my
grandfather who died in 1989. Because I am located in Austria I can access
various information sources here in Austria quite easily such as the Austrian
National Library (= Oesterreichische Nationalbibliothek: www.oenb.at). There I
have found an interesting document which might be of interest to other Canadian
members of the BB.
Following the 1st world war various private emigration offices opened up in
Austria. Because the high number of emigrants in this time the Austrian
government formed the so-called "Wanderungsamt" (= the emigrants bureau) in
order to control and guide all Austrians who wanted to leave their country.
For this purpose, the "Wanderungsamt" published some brochures with very
useful information about the actual trip to the country.
I was very excited when I discovered 2 brochures about emigration to Canada
in the archives of the Austrian national library dating back to about 1929.
They contain, as well, information how people were moved from their port of
landing to the final destination and the tasks of the 2 big Canadian railway
companies in this area. Of course these documents are in German and printed in
Gothic type letters which will make reading somewhat difficult. Maybe I will
try to translate the documents sometimes.
Following this email I will mail both documents in PDF-Format to you. Because
I have scanned and converted it myself, I can guarantee that it is free of any
viruses. If you believe that this is of interest to other BB members as well,
you might offer this documents for download on the BB homepage. Because I
wanted to preserve the quality of the original documents, both PDFs are quite
large (about 7 MB per file). Each of it will be mailed to you via 2 separate
emails. Many greetings from Vienna!
3. CROATIAN LANGUAGE AND LIFE IN THE BURGENLAND (from Margaret Kaiser)
An article (http://www.uoc.edu/euromosaic/web/document/croat/an/i1/i1.html)
by the Research Centre of Multilingualism, entitled, "Croat in Austria,"
primarily discusses linguistic, geographic, economic, historic, educational,
media, and other aspects of Croat language and life in the Burgenland.
A comparative article, "Hungarian in Austria," is located at
http://www.uoc.edu/euromosaic/web/homean/index1.html.
These articles are part of the Euromosaic report. A description of the Euromasic
report is located at http://www.uoc.edu/euromosaic/web/homean/index1.html.
It may be that the BB is already familiar with these articles, but if they
are not already included in the BB Link DB, perhaps they should be. The
articles appear well researched. Perhaps Frank, Bob or others, more familiar to
the subject, would like to evaluate them.
Bob Strauch replies: Good article. Just one little faux pas at the beginning.
Südmähren is Southern Moravia and not in Slovakia. There are 2 or 3 "Burgenland
Croat" villages in S. Moravia, and more around Bratislava/Slovakia as well.
4. TASTE OF THE BURGENLAND - PINCHED DUMPLINGS (NOODLES) FOR SOUP (from Bob Strauch)
Bob writes: Not exactly weather for a hot pot of soup, so save this for
autumn and winter.
In Burgenland, I've seen these referred to as "Gezupfte Nudln" (zupfen = to
pluck). They can be added to many soups, not just goulash soup. Supposedly,
experts can tell by the shape of the dumpling whether the cook is right- or
left-handed. Another recipe I have, calls for the dough, not to be rolled out, but
formed into logs, before you start pinching or plucking. Not to be confused with
Gerstln/Tarhonya, which are formed by grating the dough.
From: "HAL Culinaria List" Subject: [Culinaria] Recipe (From Newsletter #26,
see at: http://magyarmarketing.com/newsletter.php)
Earlier this year, the Cleveland Plain Dealer carried a wonderful article by
Cynthia Zadesjey Holub who made a trip to Hungary and shared many wonderful
cooking ideas with the readers. Cynthia also conducts cooking classes in the
Cleveland area as a culinary instructor at the Western Reserve School of
Cooking. She lives in Solon. This recipe is adapted by Cynthia, a second generation
Hungarian-American.
Many of you may already have a recipe for Gulyas Leves (soup). This recipe is
for Pinched Pasta (Csipetke), which is the special noodle which goes into the
Gulyas Soup.
Makes 4 servings
1 large egg, at room temperature
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 T. water
This pasta often tastes best when re-heated the second time, after it's had a
change to soak up the flavor of the soup. The pasta is very rustic and
difficult to mix; for this recipe your hands are probably your best tools.
Place flour in mixing bowl, making a well in flour. Add the egg, salt and
water, mixing until well combined. Use back of wooden spoon to help distribute
the moisture; grab clumps of dough with hand squeezing to bring dough together.
Dough will look coarse. turn out onto a floured table; knead until smooth.
Roll out dough to 1/8 inch thickness. Using forefinger and thumb, pinch off
small bits of dough. Add directly to a simmering soup to cook.
(ED Note: As Bob indicates this is a little like grated dumplings or spaetzle
except they'll be larger and more like dumplings or gnochi. I find I can take
a lump of this dough and just tear off pieces without forming into logs, but
they don't look as nice. These add a wonderful texture and bite to soup. They
are far superior to any type of dried boxed noodles.)
5. HUNGARIAN PAINTERS OF PEASANT OR RURAL SCENES & BURGENLAND ARTISTS
In order to bring you the homeland of our ancestors, we research many subjects:
art is one. The only way we can view the homeland of the past is through
pictures. Photos are available from about 1870 on and they are available in many
publications, post cards and private collections. Paintings, while portraying
earlier periods, are more difficult unless we have access to subject museums
and collections. Among published art books, I found one that dealt with two
centuries of Hungarian painters. The book title is "Two Centuries Of Hungarian
Painters 1820-1970, A Catalogue of the Nicolas M. Salgo Collection." It was
published by the American University Press, Washington, DC, 1991.
I scanned the paintings, looking for those which dealt with peasant or rural
scenes, assuming that these would best portray the Hungary of the times, if
not necessarily the counties or area which became Burgenland in 1921. I then
developed a list of those painters in order to have a reference for possible
purchase of available prints or copies of their work. If you are interested in
art, you will realize that Hungarian painters are not often referenced in
American collections. My list, categorized by school of painting, follows. I've
not used the Hungarian language markings.
The Neoclassical Period
Andras Marko - lived 1824-1895 - born Vienna
Gyorgy Telepy - 1794-1885 - Kisleta
Gustav Kelety - 1834-1902 - Pozsony
Sandor Brodszky - 1819-1901 - Toalmas
Munich & Paris Academies - Realist Movement
Mihaly Munkacsy - 1844-1900 - Munkacs
Laszlo Paal - 1846-1879 - Zam
Laszlo Mednyanszky - 1852-1919 - Becko
(I was impressed by his work, which included a number of WW-I scenes.)
Academism
Aladar Edvi Illes - 1870-1958 - Budapest
Gusztav Magyar-Mannheimer - 1859-1937 - Budapest
Nandor Katona - 1864-1932 - ZepesóFalu
Rezso Burghardt - 1884-1963 - Zsombolya
Mark Rubovics - 1867-1947 - Pest
Nagybanya & Artists Colony In Kecskemet
Jeno Maticska - 1885-1906 - Nagybanya
Oszkar Glatz - 1872-1958 - Budapest
Sandor Nyilasy - 1873-1934 - Szeged
(I was impressed with these last two for their farm scenes.)
Art Noveau
Jozef Ripelronai - 1861-1927 - Kapsovar
Gyula Batthyány - 1887-1959 - Ikervar
Hungarian Avant-Garde
Karoly Kernstok - 1873-1940 - Budapest
Circle Of Der Sturm (Painters of the great plain between the two wars.)
Adolf Fenyes - 1867-1945 - Kecskemet
Gyula Rudnay - 1878-1957 - Pelsoc
(I recommend these as well.)
Nagybanya Artist's Colony
Istvan Szoni - 1894-1960 - Ujpest
Burgenland Artists
There are, of course, purely Burgenland artists. I have not been able to
compile a list of these, although some of the present generation are mentioned as
residents of various villages in those publications which describe the villages.
A few, like Eduard (Edi) Sauerzopf - Stegersbach and Jennersdorf, have been
mentioned in prior newsletters. I am aware of at least one "artists' movement" or
school led by Ferri Zotter. This includes the other arts as well. A book by
Gottfried Pröll titled "Auch Kunstler sind Mennschen-von Malern und Anderen
Besonderlingen Im Südlichen Burgenland," edition lex liszt 12, Oberwart 1998, mentions
many of them. I have yet to translate this book, which may well bring us up to
date on the "arts" movement in southern Burgenland. Literature, painting,
sculpture, architecture, pottery, music and drama all preserve the heritage of
the past and are worth inclusion in our family history research.
6. GRAZ FESTIVAL
Fritz Königshofer writes: As it happened, we were in Graz on September 14 and
went to see the folk festival downtown. It was very crowded. The many performances
(dances, singing, all in local Styrian attire) were somehow squeezed
by the masses of spectators. There was a lot of food and wine, including Sturm
(the fresh, still opaque, wine of this year). The weather was perfect.
Newsletter continues as no. 121B.
THE BURGENLAND BUNCH NEWS - No. 121B
DEDICATED TO AUSTRIAN-HUNGARIAN BURGENLAND FAMILY HISTORY
(Issued monthly by G. J. Berghold)
Sept. 30, 2003
(c) 2003 G. J. Berghold-all rights reserved)
This third section of our 4-section newsletter includes only one article:
TASTE OF THE BURGENLAND - STRUDEL - THE DEFINITIVE ARTICLE!
Probably no other ethnic food brings back the food of our forebears like
strudel. The word alone is memorable - plates of warm strudel with infinite
varieties of filling. Bare-armed mothers and grandmothers, flour on hands,
pulling dough on a kitchen table covered with a white cloth. Large black
pans of rolled strudel loaves baking in the oven. The fragrance of cabbage and
potato, steaming on a large platter, the mouth watering anticipation of sweet
cherry and apple dusted with sugar - the variations of topfen (cheese), bean,
turnip or meat fillings. First the soup then the strudel - would the soup never
be gone, before someone else snitched the crispy end pieces? To be a Burgenländer
is to be a lover of traditional strudel in all its variations.
Our indefatigable ethnic researcher Bob Strauch forwards an article which
moves ethnic strudel to "new cuisine." It started what became one of the larger
BB email threads. Bob writes and forwards:
It must be National Strudel Week on the TV Food Network.
Potato Strudel with Dill Sauce
Recipe courtesy The Cookworks
Recipe Summary
2 Yukon gold potatoes, cut into 1/4-inch cubes
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, plus 1 tablespoon
1 tablespoon olive oil, plus 1 tablespoon
1 cup finely diced onion
1 clove garlic, minced
4 cups button mushrooms, diced
2 cups shiitake mushrooms, stemmed and sliced
2 tablespoons white vermouth
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 cup soft chevre
3 sheets phyllo dough
1/2 cup clarified butter, melted
Dill Sauce, recipe follows (omitted) Special equipment: pastry brush
(preparation omitted)
* My reply: What has happened to good honest potato strudel?
-Vermouth-cheese-herbs-mushrooms-dill sauce-yech! Potato strudel (Burgenland style)
has always been my favorite. Paired with cabbage on the same day, it has no equal
(except maybe apple and cherry).
I guess this is what happens when a modern chef prepares a long time peasant
favorite. I'll stick to what my grandmother made. My wife has trouble with
potato strudel. Sometimes the potatoes just won't co-operate. I know my grandmother
always was fussy about the potatoes she used - cabbage as well. Some are much
better than others for this purpose. I did have a potato strudel south of
Graz that had ham in it and was served with sauerkraut - not bad. I also had a
great potato strudel from Albert Schuch's mother in Kleinpetersdorf. (Albert's
father turned to me, smiled and said "grumpenstrudel" - grumpen being the dialect
name for kartoffel or potato. I can still smell that strudel baking in their
oven. A soup and strudel lunch - how delightful - makes you want to live forever.)
* Bob replies: Believe it or not, but there's yet another strudel recipe that
will be prepared next week on the Food Network: banana-pecan strudel. I guess
one could really put almost anything into a strudel. Sweet or savory, it is
very versatile. The variety of traditional fillings simply depended on what
products were available in a given region (and those that were affordable).
* My reply: Yes - just like pizza, chili, spaghetti, goulasch and a lot of other
ethnic based recipes. You know, I really like Greek Baklava, which may well
be an ancestor of strudel via the Turks. Phyllo baking seems to be an "in"
thing among the new cuisine advocates. The GCT river trip Amsterdam to Vienna
included an afternoon of cruising while watching an apple strudel demonstration
and tasting. They don't pull the dough like we do - they roll it out like pie
crust, put the filling on one end and roll it up. Makes a big difference in
texture.
The "Taste Of The Burgenland" is what we remember from our childhood and, although
"it makes the belly feel good," it also brings back memories of loved ones
long gone and times and meals which we enjoyed. I often tell my wife, it's
tasty but not like my grandmother (mother) made. Our children and grandchildren
probably say the same thing.
* Bob Strauch then responds with: (How about this one?) Just like Mama used
to make - NOT!
Cabbage Strudel Recipe courtesy Gale Gand
Filling:
1/4 cup butter
1/2 green cabbage, shredded
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup sugar
1/2 cup raisins
1/4 cup walnut pieces, toasted
3 sheets phyllo pastry, thawed overnight in the refrigerator if frozen, kept moist
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/2 cup sugar
1 cup walnuts, lightly toasted and finely chopped
(preparation omitted)
* My reply - same as potato strudel, but I'll bet this tastes good - more like a
fruit strudel! Cabbage strudel for desert anyone? Never replace apple or
cherry.
* Tom Glatz writes: I had apple strudel in Austria made by my cousin's wife
from Grafenschachen. Potatoes were incorporated into the dough. It was ok, but
I like the regular dough or phylo better.
* Bob writes: I've known local people to put powdered sugar (Staubzucker) on
their Krautstrudl, even when it's been prepared savory with a generous amount
of black pepper. Nein, Danke.
* Frank Teklits writes: I'm with you on this one. My preferences for cabbage
strudel has always been on the spicy side & generously endowed with black
pepper. I don't recall getting any potato strudel at home, but my mom's "topfen
strudel", just a bit on the warm side, makes my mouth water just thinking of
it. My better half will be making cabbage strudel this coming week, but has yet
to try making cheese strudel. Thank the Lord for phylo dough, as I don't
think anyone still makes the dough as our folks used to - stretched so thin over
the table cover one could see the patterns embedded in the cloth. It makes for
some very interesting reading to see the various replies to your articles.
* Then Bob writes: All that's missing are the sun-dried tomatoes! My
great-aunt in the Bronx (originally from Punitz) made "Grumpenstrudl" with mashed
potatoes. But my father's cousin's wife in Hartberg in the eastern Steiermark made
it with grated raw potatoes, which were topped with chopped garlic and Grammeln
(cracklings). She also used packaged strudel dough leaves, which were not the
same as the packaged phyllo dough that we get here. Still, we've made her
version several times. I could eat it all day long. In talking with other
Bglders here in the Lehigh Valley, most know potato strudel made with mashed
potatoes - I've only found one family whose mother made the grated raw potato
version.
* Mary Anne Masiderits writes: I've really enjoyed the exchange on the
subject of strudel. I don't know that I've ever had potato strudel (starch
overkill?), but I greatly enjoyed the cabbage, cheese, and apple strudels baked by my
mother's cousin in Stegersbach when I visited them as an adult, and during my
childhood by my Burgenland grandmothers. My mother just once attempted baking
a strudel, without having apprenticed with either grandmother, and the
pulling of the dough (of which Gerry wrote) was a frustrating and unfruitful
experience. (The pun, while not intended, is appropriate, because it was an apple
strudel, which my father and I were anticipating.) I've sampled many of the New
World approximations, where phyllo dough becomes the answer to the potential
frustration of the echt Burgenland method -- not bad, but not echt Burgenland.
(That doesn't mean I'd be above trying them some day for guests.) Moreover,
you may be aware that something called "Helmut's Strudel" from a bakery
supposedly founded by an emigrant Austrian (and located somewhere in the South) is
now competing for attention in fast food bailiwicks, such as the Wisconsin State
Fair and several of the ethnic festivals that grace our Milwaukee lake front
each summer. (Yes, just stalls down from the scones at "Irish Fest" you can
find festival-goers munching Helmut's offerings -- all of the dessert variety
(apple, almond-cheese, and cherry, I believe). My mother's cousin died several
years ago, and there's no one in either hemisphere who bakes the echt strudel
for me. (I'm left with memories of almost sitting on a strudel-in-the-making
during my first visit to Stegersbach, after said cousin, unbeknownst to me, had
temporarily parked some pulled dough on a wax paper decked chair; excitedly
entering the house after an afternoon elsewhere, I had not looked where I was
sitting. . . .
* To which Bob replies: There are many more traditional varieties: pumpkin,
bean, farina, cherry, pear, plum, poppy seed, turnip, raisin. I've had almost
all of them at some time in my life. A whole other topic are the strudels made
with a raised yeast dough. I've had Helmut's Strudel several times. They always
set up a stand at the large "Musikfest" every August in our neighboring city of
Bethlehem. Topfen is my favorite sweet variety.
We still have places to get the homemade stretch strudel here. Certain
churches make it for their bazaars and festivals. The Edelweiss Haus Tavern in
Northampton (owned by Bglders) has it every weekend. Plus I have friends of
various backgrounds - Bglder, Hungarians, Windish (a local term for Slovenians) -
who make their own at home at a drop of a hat. Of course, they were all born and
raised in the Old Country. Our area is lucky enough to still have quite a few
remnants of the Old Country culture, but they are vanishing rapidly. It
often seems like few younger people are interested in their roots, at
least not enough to motivate them to become actively involved.
AND NOW DEAR READER, WE BRING YOU THE EVENT YOU'VE BEEN WAITING FOR: A RECIPE
FOR GOOD, OLD, HONEST, BURGENLAND IMMIGRANT PEASANT CABBAGE STRUDEL!
CABBAGE STRUDEL (suggested by Mary Marek)
- Reprinted from BB Newsletter no. 47A, dtd 11/30/98.
Continuing the taste of Hungary (and the Burgenland) - see "Paprika", newsletter
46, I'm going to set myself up as a target by providing a recipe for Cabbage
Strudel as requested by one of our members. I doubt if there is any dish
(other than goulasch) that is as memorable as cabbage strudel among Burgenland
descendants. There are many variations and a lot of you strudel bakers will
tell me I'm doing something wrong or suggest variations.
Mary writes: My name is Mary Marek and I am a member of the BB... I am
desperate for a recipe for Cabbage Strudel... My husband's Grandmother used to make
it... she was from Eisenzicken... I have searched in vain for a recipe that
matches hers... Do you know of anyone who may know how to make this?
Answer: Mary, there many variations. Most families try a few and settle on
one which is to their taste. If you haven't pulled strudel dough, don't be
alarmed if your first attempt ends in a failure. Something you have to do to become
an expert. You can patch small holes even though they say you shouldn't. Just
makes the strudel a little lumpy. Would get you fired in Vienna. (Note - if
your dough flops and ends up in the garbage, you can always boil some noodles and
put them in the frying pan with your cabbage filling for that tasty dish
"kraut-nockerl").
Strudel Dough -- or Use Store Bought Phyllo Dough (sometimes can be too dry)
4 cups high gluten flour (Ceresota or one of the bread flours available in most stores)
1/2 tsp salt
2 small eggs
1/2 cup melted butter or shortening (not hot)
1 cup warm water
(some add a teaspoon of vinegar to help activate dough)
Sift flour into large bowl, make a well in center, put in eggs beaten in the
water, salt and shortening. "Make a dough" (that great immigrant cooking
expression that always drove my mother up a wall), working with the hands until it
comes away from sides of bowl. If too wet, add a little flour. Dough should be
soft, pliable and silky. Shape into two round loaves, brush with a little
extra melted shortening and let rest covered on a floured towel in warm place
for 1 hour. While waiting, make filling:
Filling
1 head cabbage (abt. 2 lbs. finely chopped, squeezed and drained of liquid)
1/2 cup fat (bacon or ham fat gives a stronger flavor but shortening is ok too)
1 Tblsp. or more sugar
2 Tblsp. black pepper (some don't add this untill filling the dough) - or to taste
1/2 cup fine bread crumbs
2 tsps. salt
1 tsp. crushed caraway seeds
1/3 cup butter
beef broth (beef boullion cube dissolved in water ok)
Cook sugar in fat until browned; add cabbage, salt, pepper and carraway.
Stirring constantly, cook cabbage until lightly browned, adding beef broth in
small amounts if necessary to keep cabbage from burning. Let cool.
This is most difficult part:
Place a loaf of dough on a clean floured cloth=covered surface, (it will
eventually cover the work surface - a card table area is about right). Roll dough
flat with floured rolling pin as thin as possible, then start from center with
hands under dough and gently pull and stretch outwards with a rolling motion
circling the table. Don't stretch too far before moving outward a few more
inches at a time to avoid holes. When table is covered with dough you can see
through, remove lumps of dough from edges by cutting or winding off. (These edge
pieces can be reworked if not too dry or twisted into pretzels, sprinkled with
cinnamon sugar and baked for the kids in the strudel oven. You can also make
sticks, roll in parmesan cheese and make cheese straws.)
Sprinkle half melted butter (from 1/3 cup) over stretched dough. Sprinkle
half cabbage mixture next making sure coverage is even. Sprinkle with half bread
crumbs. Starting at one edge, rollup (use the cloth to do this, picking up one
end and letting the dough fall away from the cloth) firmly toward center for
two long rolls (easiest) or all the way for one fat one.
Cut to fit pan or sheet. Put rolled strudel on greased baking sheet or pan
and brush with melted butter. Repeat with second loaf. Bake in medium oven until
lightly browned. Cut into four-inch pieces and serve warm.
Some more variations.
Sprinkle filling with cream (sweet or sour) before rolling strudel.
Add more or less caraway seed.
Add bacon bits (rendered) or "grammels" (bits left from rendering lard) before rolling.
Add onion (to taste - maybe 1 small one chopped fine) to cabbage before cooking.
Sprinkle with sweet paprika.
Add more sugar, lemon rind and blanched almonds to potato filling (below).
Original recipes all called for lard for "fat". Does make a taste difference, but!
Potato strudel can be made in the same way (it's drier). Cook 3 or more large
baking potatoes with skins on. Remove skins and put through ricer. Sprinkle
on dough, add butter and breadcrumbs, maybe more salt and do all the other things.
My grandmother served both cabbage and potato on special pre holiday Fridays
(meatless days). She doubled and tripled the above recipe. She had a soup and
salad first, then the above and apple or cherry strudel for dessert. The
strudel was kept warm in big black baking pans in a warming compartment of her
immense gas and coal iron stove that filled a whole kitchen alcove. Have fun, I'm
going to look for a snack.
Newsletter continues as no. 121C.